Cali-based Brandt-Sorenson calls out "creative theft" in the cycling kit industry

I scrolled through an angry post from Brandt-Sorenson - an LA-based collective designing cycling kit and athletic apparel - on Instagram last week and thought it might be interesting to find out what’s gotten them so fired-up.

Before I publish this one though, I should say one or two things about some of the comments. First off, go on their Instagram and read them yourselves. I’d encourage you to. They call into question issues facing the cycling kit industry which need more sunshine. What is creativity versus copying? How does apparel become more sustainable? Is the market hyper-saturated? Has kit taken on the traits of fast fashion? It goes on and on. These are issues that need to be discussed. Things I’m sure we all think about, and issues (myself included) that need to be considered more closely.

Secondly, through writing on this site and others, I’ve received my fare share of kit samples. For free. I value the relationships with the brands who’ve supported me over the years. This post is not meant to call anyone out or to discredit. Just raise some questions - in Q&A format - about kit. What is quality? How long should kit last? What are you actually buying? What are the true costs? Those kinds of things.

Anyway, on with the show. I’ve never talked with Cecilia from BS before but I reached out and did the following interview over Gmail. The questions expanded on their initial post, which singled out the ethical practices of industry. Where logical, I reached out for responses from all sides. Specially I contacted PNS twice, but nothing. (PasNormalStudios has sent me kit in past; I’ve reviewed it favorably. I think they’ve built a unique and interesting brand and I like riding in their stuff).

I value these relationships and perspectives and wish for them to continue. Moreover, I’ve never worn Brandt-Sorenson’s product. This article isn’t a review. Cecilia and her partner Nick are two people trying to grow a business in a space increasingly plagued with homogeneity, and I think theirs in an interesting perspective. I’m not pointing fingers, either, but some images they sent my way for the site bare similarities worth pointing out.

Now Brandt-Sorenson’s co-owner is no stranger to controversy. Read this 2016 CyclingTips article for more on that. But we all need to look more closely at the quality of the kit we buy, so we can enjoy riding it, but also decide what is the watermark for creativity. Quality, too. Anyway, leave a comment if you read to the end or think this is BS. Would love to hear it.

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HNH: For people unfamiliar with your kits and company, give us some background on the brand and the people behind it.

BS: Brandt-Sorenson is an established made-to-measure fashion brand, collected by endurance athletes who place a high value on their time and chose to invest in quality American contemporary sportswear. We are a leader in fashion integrity, offering world-class sustainability to cyclists and runners. Basically, its a two-person team operating out of a small workshop in downtown Los Angeles for over a decade. Cecilia Brandt is the co-owner and brand director. She also co-ordinates a global client list and manages our MTM direct to athlete model. Nick designs, cuts and sews every garment to the athlete's measurements. Since starting, he's handcrafted nearly $1million in sportswear, with a return, refund or sizing exchange rate of about 0.1%. That's absolutely unheard of. There are no other brands out there who can match those numbers. Nobody is making sportswear like this.

HNH: Fiery post on creative integrity and kit design on Instagram. Can you give us some context? Enough is enough? Or was there some sort of trigger?

BS: Here's the thing, we are not here to be the creative fashion directors for the cycling apparel industry. Our made-to-measure collection is not some free mood board for a wealthy Danish businessman to mimic into a ready-to-wear bulk production line. This is our intellectual property. Nobody has the right to use it without our permission. Our name is trademarked, and our brand identity is protected under Federal trade dress laws. Yes, we are an authentic, small brand with limited legal resources. Pretty safe bet that you won't get sued unless we choose to crowdsource a legal fund.

Brandt-Sorenson offered up these images, which show resemblances in creative design between kit.

HNH: Calling out kit companies and their owners directly is full on...What did you mean by this one: "NO you may not use our made-to-measure designs and trade dress for your bulk production. Peter and Karl, STOP. NO means NO." Context?

BS: Unfortunately, some believe that if they have more wealth, that they can take the property of creatives for free. That's not ethical, but its the way the world works sometimes. We are not Nike Lab who has access to the best attorneys to enforce their intellectual property ( Jun Takahashi Gyakusou NikeLab vs. PNS example). People have eyeballs, they know what's just, and ethical. Consumers shouldn't need a federal judge to tell them when something has been copied. It's not flattery or homage. It’s theft. Sustainable design is much more than BlueSign certified fabrics, it's about paying artists, designers, and craftsmen a living wage.

We are putting 100% sweat equity into this boot-straped brand. We started with about $300 and have been based in downtown Los Angeles for over a decade. We have no investors, loans or debts. Los Angeles, while one of the most dominant creative hubs in the USA, is also the most unaffordable city in the USA. We have over a hundred thousand dollars worth of arts and fashion education behind our designs, and a ton of invaluable life experience in art, fashion and endurance sports. Nick started competing athletically and sewing MTM sportswear at the age of ten.

HNH: "Giving stolen designs to IG influencers without disclosure violates USA Federal Trade Commission laws." - Are there incidences of this happening that you can cite? Does this happen often in the apparel game?

BS: Yes, we've had a few messages about this practice. Some influencers were given PNS items upfront and then asked to purchase more down the road. We haven't found any IG posts selling PNS (copies of our designs) that are disclosed as actual advertisements.

HNH: Fast fashion is unsustainable - full stop. Why are you calling it out now? Why has it crept up on cyclists (and cycling) so quickly?

BS: Design copying in fashion is actually creating an environmental crisis. The fashion industry is the second-largest polluter globally. Fast fashion profits by appropriating intellectual property from creatives, devaluing them to common use trends, and flooding the market with cheap replicas. Whoever floods a trend the fastest with the most volume is going to make the most money for corporate executives and shareholders. Sadly, 95% of imported clothing into the USA is tainted by human trafficking and forced labor. Americans are discarding on average 80 lbs of clothing a year into landfills, and most of these garments are plastic polyester. We believe that the current profit/power structure in apparel is flawed, and that our made-to-measure direct to client model is the best way forward.

HNH: Three things you want to see change in the kit biz right now - go.

BS: Verified for zero human trafficking, use of sustainable fabrics, a perfect fit.

HNH: Complete this sentence: "Brandt Sorenson wants the next kit you buy to be...."

Authentic.

Go West: Matt Ankeny wants you to look better on the bike and go faster, too.

I met Matthew Ankeny when he was working as a pitch-man for Rapha - a job he took for a year or thereabouts, previously (currently?) working as contributing writer, editor and producer in the cycling biz, in addition to being an all-round bon vivant.

He dropped an email late last year, saying hey friends, “I’m moving on to do my own thing” before going dark and turning into a skin care CEO. There’s a gap in cycling that was wide open: skin care + recovery post rides, he said. He set out to go after it.

The world’s harsh. Sun. Sweat. Pollution. All that sticks to your skin and breaks it down. Reality is, after a long ride most of us kick-up our feet, sip a coffee and watch stages of the La Vuelta, quite literally hanging our skin out to dry. Not cool, man. Not cool.

Through the magic of the internet, we reconnected to chat about his new venture, CBD chamois cream (bliss!) and why most cyclists eschew skin care. He’s an interesting personality in the cycling world. You can check him out here and West product here.

You worked in the cycling biz for years. Why West now? How'd you spot the opportunity?

Well, I moved in with my girlfriend and we shared a bathroom. I started stealing her products and she used some quality, expensive stuff. She didn't love the stealing, but I quickly noticed a difference in my skin. It literally started to look and feel much better. Less dry. Less red. Less irritated. It was something I had not experienced with the cheaper products I'd half-heartedly used before.

So I started researching it — I even took a continuing education class at UCLA — and there is a pretty clear difference between the good stuff and the mediocre stuff in skincare. And the good stuff includes certain ingredients that are proven to work. But all the brands at that level were focused on women, and nothing spoke to the cyclists or runners or men. And those are the people who tend to need it the most — the people who are outside, sweating, getting sun-exposure and windburn and environmental debris on their face. A four-hour ride does not do good things for the surface of your skin. 

Unfortunately. I think the traditional skincare brands aren't talking to the people who are living the most active lifestyles. And I think those people need quality skincare more than most. So, West was born to speak to those people and give them top-quality products.

Describe your recommended skin care routine. 

It's a pretty simple daily practice — like brushing your teeth. Every morning and night, cleanse and then moisturize. I keep our Cleanser in the shower, so it's at hand and easy to remember. I then use our lighter Moisturizer in the morning and our Recovery Cream at night, which I keep next to my bed. Since our products are pretty potent, with lots of active ingredients — hyaluronic acid, beta-glucans, AHAs, liposomes — just doing those steps is about 90% of the way to good skin health. Just cleanse then moisturizer, morning and night. Or, obviously, you can get more advanced (and if you have a persistent skin condition, you should talk to a dermatologist). 

After a big ride, I use our Scrub and Mask. The Scrub is a hybrid exfoliant, so it works physically to remove debris and also chemically to clear out pores. It's a skin saver, for sure. And then the Mask is a super booster of nutrients. I use it after I shave. Or in dry weather. Or at altitude. It's a solid reset button.

Why do most cyclists ignore skincare?

Skincare is an oddly taboo topic for a lot of athletes, cyclists included. Which is weird. Like, we shave our legs. We wear lycra. We endure long bouts of suffering together, but talking about our skin just doesn't come up, especially among men. I've had the conversation more than most in the recent past, and almost everyone I've talked to is 100% aware that they should care for their skin better than they do. But they don't know where to start or what products to use. I think the more that people discuss it, the less odd it becomes. That's part of the mission here. We're hoping to bring up that conversation more and more. Someday, I hope it'll be cool to say, "Hey man, your skin looks good, what's your routine?"

What’s recovery cream?

It's the secret weapon. The fountain of youth. It's a super-rich cream that stimulates the skin cells to building up the cell walls. That comes from the beta-glucans and lipid-rich oils in the formula. Basically, your skin cells can't retain water without strong cell walls. That's why skin droops and sags and wrinkles and looks tired. This cream stimulates the skin to build up those walls while simultaneously hydrating the skin. It is also a skin soother, so that slight dry burn you may feel after a ride goes away instantly. It's a lot of product and it's not cheap, but it works. Applying after a ride or overnight (I use it every night), the results are very impressive. Your skin will feel and look a lot better.

This is a skin-soother. Make friends with it.

What's in West product? Nothing gross, right?

So, our main focus is on active ingredients. We use proven ingredients at proven levels. That's not a given for all products and brands. Each of our formulas has its hero ingredients, and these are the best stuff for your skin. What is in a product is as essential as what's not in it. A lot of brands live by "No Lists" — which we're keen for, but I don't only want to know what's not in your product. I want to know what's in your product that works.

And no, there's nothing gross in our products. We're vegan and primarily plant and mineral derived. No parabens, phthalates, petrolatum, lanolin, mineral oil, propelyne glycol, sulfates (SLS, SLES), artificial dyes or synthetic fragrances — which are kind of the main culprits of consumer fear. That's more common today than some headlines may make you believe. At some supermarket levels, there is some drying and irritating ingredients, but once you're in the higher price range, most people steer clear of these ingredients. It's a fundamental piece. So, make sure your products are at least at that level of compliance, then look at things like active ingredients and pH levels for better insight into if the product works, rather than is simply benign.

Do posh skincare products make a cyclist faster?

Definitely. Fresh is faster. Healthy skin adds watts. It all comes down to this: you only get one face. Your face is getting hit with everything you throw at it during a ride, which is a lot. Do it some good and take care of it. Your skin will feel better. Your skin will look better. And to borrow a line from Neon Deion Sanders, "If you look good, you feel good. If you feel good, you play good. If you play good, they pay good."

What's in the cards beyond 2019? Some chamois butter, perhaps?

CBD chamois butter is in full development. I'm testing it daily and experiencing a new type of bliss. Ha! No, we're looking to launch a few potent vitamin serums soon — retinol (Vitamin A) and triple Vitamin C&E serum. These ingredients are the best of the best for your skin, but they're not cheap to do right in a formula. I wanted to start with an approachable line before dropping the heavy hitters. But I've been using versions of both serums for a bit now, and the results are pretty impressive. I'm PR-ing tons of segments on Strava. It's like I'm on an e-bike. It's skincare doping, and there's no way to test for it.

Real-time aero testing will define the next generation of cycling performance, says former pro Iván Velasco

It’s on a break from a busy classics campaign that Iván Velasco lightheartedly reflects back on his own career, wondering what could have been had personal aerodynamic meters been in use fifteen years ago. When he raced professionally, heart rate monitors where the de rigueur training aid. Almost remorsefully, he explains that his not-so-distant generation rode under much less measured conditions.

“When I raced, it was based much more on feel,” he says wryly over a Google Hangout, sticking his finger in the air as if to measure the wind, thinking about when he and former Euskaltel-Euskadi teammates relied primarily on target HR zones to determine effort. By the time the intertwining of power and heart rate data was ubiquitous in cycling, Velasco’s career was in its twilight, though the added dimension of power to performance was immediately clear. 

Now 39, Velasco is enjoying an interesting third act to a career spent in professional cycling, witnessing a similar but different evolution in performance. After riding professionally for nearly a decade, he went on to work as an engineer with Specialized, a bike company, focusing on software development to calculate Coefficient of Aerodynamic Drag (CdA) using power files from velodrome testing, working with teams like Bora Hansgrohe and Team Quick Step. 

Today he is in an innovation-focused role on one of the strongest teams in the professional peloton, Astana Pro Team, where he works as lead performance engineer. He spends his days applying real-time rider data, taken from aerodynamics testing (and personal aero meters), to influence the team’s cycling performance. So far the results have been good. 

By the end of April 2019, Astana had already taken 23 first place finishes, consistently succeeding in races where time trials and aerodynamic advantage can mean podiums. At this year’s Tour of the Basque Country and Vuelta a Andalucia Ruta Ciclista Del Sol, for example, a focus on innovation yielded strong results for their GC, Ion Izagirre, who took first and second-place General Classification finishes at the respective races. 

It was last Spring (2018) when Astana bought into the concept of leveraging real-time aerodynamic analysis to create a competitive advantage. To explore its potential more fully, they created role on the team’s coaching staff which Velasco went on to fill. By that time, Astana had been using the Notio - a device that measures CdA, rolling resistance and more - for months. Having a full-time engineer in an innovation-focused role, they thought, would help them accelerate the advantage. Turns out they were right. 

The advantages of real-time testing 

Will aero devices be this generation’s power meter?

When Velasco was handed the opportunity to build an aerodynamics-led performance program within a powerful pro team using a new aero-meter -- this generation’s power meter, he wondered -- to optimize rider positioning, equipment and materials, it was clear a lot had changed in cycling performance since his days at Euskaltel. 

In the first 60 days in the new role, Velasco set up meetings with each of Astana’s riders at a velodrome in Northern Spain, close to where he calls home, with two training camps over six days. The goal -- aside from settling in -- was to use the Notio and to create an aerodynamic profile for each of the athletes looking ahead to the 2019 season.

Focusing specifically on time trials, Velasco measured the intensity and timing of each rider in the time trial, then compared it against everyone’s aerobic threshold. He then compared rider data taken from the velodrome and compared it against real road conditions. The outputs where the beginnings of a now well-determined time trial protocol adhered to by the team. Before Notio testing, each rider on Astana functioned more like Velasco when he was a professional, pulling at the front, for example, based entirely how they themselves felt. 

Now using Notio data, and with the analysis from Velasco and the entire performance coaching staff, each rider has very specific roles in their respective TT positions, defined by their CdA and physiological profiles. The advantages of applying real-time testing were clear.

“Riders saw the data similarity between velodrome and road testing, which inspired a lot of confidence,” adds Velasco. “We’ve replicated scenarios that were previously available only in a wind tunnel, which are really static conditions that don’t mimic racing. Notio adds that element of reality because you can test and train exactly how you would in a race, constantly refining the process from wherever you are.”

At the camp, the team started what’s now become an established TT process, gaining clarity on each of their individual and collective roles - something they did not have before extensive CdA analysis became available. Decisions are made based on established controls, while riders continue to react positively to the approach. “This kind of thing inspires a lot of confidence,” believes Velasco. It’s a sentiment that is echoed in the team’s ongoing performance.  

Making meaning of aero data

Throughout the 2019 season, Astana will spend just one day inside a wind tunnel. The rest of their aero testing will come directly from the Notio device in real-road conditions. Ahead of the Giro D’Italia, Velasco has been tinkering with several different materials working closely with Giordana, Limar and Argon18, to improve skin suits, helmets and bikes - all of which are testing and retested using the Notio. 

The team is consistently finding small but significant aerodynamic variables they can enhance thanks to their approach. Innovation has become an ongoing dialogue on the team bus and in meetings. Power plans are developed for each rider, for example, ahead of races by taking into account every single detail - materials, tire pressures, rider position and more - and contrasting it against CdA data analysis. It just could be the advantage that continues to guide the team’s success.

“We are faster than last year, thanks to everyone’s understanding of aerodynamics and data. It’s a really great collaboration across the team. Everything counts and we are always looking for ways to get better.” 

Don't forget to hydrate: five questions with Osmo Nutrition

After a massive bonk on a trip to Majorca and the saltiest jersey stains I’ve ever seen riding the Furka four weeks ago, I started getting emails from nutrition companies with sample offers. I took Osmo Nutrition up on theirs on the recommendation of their comms person, curious to see if it actually works.

I pretty much gave up on drink mixes two years ago. I got sick of the taste, sick of gut rot, and subsequently switched to water, even on long hot rides. This was a mistake, it turns out, and probably contributed to my salt stained kit and severe muscle cramps on efforts of 2000ms or more. But hey. Live and learn.

So I’m back to off-the-shelf mixes, and I’m starting with Osmo. I asked the team behind Peter Sagan’s favourite powder how they started working together, how salty people like myself could become less so and what makes Osmo different from the other nutrition you find at your LBS. Here’s an exert from that conversation. If you’re struggling with hydration on long summer rides, it might help.

It’s what inside that counts, and in this case, some calories and sodium seem to go a long way.

Sagan has a reputation for working only with companies he likes...Who approached who for the sponsorship, and what has it meant to the company since he started endorsing it?

Peter is a great friend and fan of Osmo. Ever since helping Peter during a particularly hot stage of the 2013 Tour of California in conditions that typically led to cramping for him he has relied on Osmo for the best hydration and nutrition advice. Peter knows what works for him and trusts us to help optimize his performance when racing and training. 

What makes Osmo different from other performance/hydration products?

Osmo uses all-natural ingredients, is low in sugar and includes a precise ratio of sodium and glucose to be the fastest way to re-hydrate your body. Too much sugar found in other sports drinks can actually have the opposite effect and dehydrate you because they have a high osmolality, or amount of substance found in a solution. These drinks will sit in your stomach and use your own body water to absorb it. This is called "reverse flux" and it effectively dehydrates you while slowing gastric emptying, causing GI distress and heaviness.

What's best hydration practice before and after long rides? Is water enough? What about homemade brews, which a pinch of salt and maple syrup, versus Osmo?

You lose body water faster than you can replenish it by drinking plain water. The precise ratio of sodium and glucose enables Osmo to work 3x faster than plain water to rehydrate your body so that you can stay hydrated once you start sweating. For long rides, we recommend one bottle of Active Hydration per hour, unless in warmer conditions, in which case 1-2 bottles per hour.

Salt and maple syrup are better than plain water alone, but Osmo has been specifically formulated, based on peer-reviewed science to be the fastest possible way to rehydrate orally. It is difficult to achieve the right osmolality without exact measurements of ingredients, especially in your kitchen. 

What kind of hydration practices are happening during the summer grand tours? Any insights from among the athletes using Osmo?

Typically riders consume significantly more than 1 bottle per hour while they are racing. For example in the Vuelta Espana last year some of the Bora riders were drinking 4 bottles per hour on some stages because of the heat! All the bottles for the team are filled in the morning and put into ice chests and each follow car will have one for the entire stage. Sometimes riders bring bottles back to the team car but more often are tossed as souvenirs for fans alongside the road. Most ProTour teams will go through 2,000-2,500 bottles throughout the duration of the Tour. Riders will keep a bottle of hydration with them at all times during the 3 weeks when off the bike too as they will finish each stage dehydrated, and being dehydrated hampers recovery.

How important is hydration to an overall endurance diet?

Hydration is ABSOLUTELY critical to your performance and overall endurance. In fact, most people don't know that when you begin to feel thirsty, you're already at a 2% loss in water, which translates to an 11% loss in top-end power. Keeping your hydration and source of calories separate is the key to maximum effectiveness of nutrition. Osmo believes that food should be in the pocket and hydration in the bottle so that digestion doesn't slow down hydration.

Stay thirsty, friends.

Lizzie Holden and Drops CC push ahead into uncertain future

When Drops Cycling built a pro-team in 2016, it was with a specific goal in mind: to contribute to the growth of women’s cycling while giving predominantly British riders a place to develop.

Things got off to a good start. They become a fast-growing female squad and after several strong race results, they went from 42nd to 7th in the world rankings. Things looked promising. Sponsors were interested. They thought they’d be able to pay riders a living wage.

Then late in 2018, almost predictably, things changed. Drops got dropped by their title sponsor, Trek. A precarious off-season followed. Management and riders took to crowdfunding to keep the team going.

Lizzie Holden - a 21-year-old rider from the UK and a third-year-pro with Drops - says that despite team ambition, they had to make sacrifices. Drops failed to get invites to several early season races; rather than fold the tent, the team took the decision to keep racing despite not being able to pay riders a dime.

“No one wanted to be in the position of having to reach out on Twitter for fundraising but that’s where we found ourselves,” she explains over the phone. Even with a modest operating budget of between 50 and 100,000 pounds, Holden says “it came down to riding with no salary or not riding at all.”

Support from Cannondale and the approximately 25,000 pounds raised through private donations helped them team push on into 2019. Some race results have followed: Holden finished 3rd at the GB National Road Race championships. Elinor Barker, another Drops rider, formerly with Wiggle High-5, finished 10th at the same event

Still, Holden says, the team sits on a precarious ledge. While sponsorship and the desire to pay real wages is sincere, financing woes have made team progress challenging. No one wants to run the team another year if it means riders can’t collect a proper salary.

“Many of the World Tour races like Ride London are offering real prize money, the same prize money as men, but the interest just isn’t there yet. Things need more time to build.”

Where does stability come from in women’s racing when even in the men’s peloton, teams struggle to survive?

“Under-investment, under-development, and inconsistent focus on women’s professional cycling and youth development programmes, as well as a staid approach to team and athlete management with a lack of emphasis on engagement,” are some of the main issues facing women’s racing, as outlined in The Rapha Roadmap. But there are many others.

The rise of women’s tennis shows that equal pay and gender equality is achieved by a combination of things: among them, action by race organizers, riders, and governing bodies. The reward of investment in opportunities for women and equal prize money is a healthier sport with a deeper talent pool.

As Drops has learned, raising money to properly capitalize a pro-team is challenging, even when men’s and women’s teams share sponsors. Industry efforts like Rapha’s to establish foundations are encouraging and a step forward, but not nearly enough.

To race competitively, and to run complete European race programs, teams have to cover travel, trainer, coaching, equipment, wrenching and director costs and more.

That kind of many doesn’t yet exist in the women’s peloton with any kind of consistency. Drops is still focused on upcoming races while Holden believes women’s cycling is going well, particularly in the UK. However even after racing professionally for the last three years, she’s not sure how to add greater stability so women’s teams can thrive.

“I guess it starts with having the budget to get the best out of the riders - to raise the quality of the riders, that’s the starting point where interest will follow.”

From there, she says, it’s really anyone’s guess.